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American Alpine Club
New York Section
SUMMER 2008
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Howard & Shayna wed at Skytop
In memoriam honoris causa
Sir Edmund Hillary
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"PARTURIENT MONTES NASCETUR RIDICULUS MUS"
("The mountains shall be in labor--
--a laughable mouse will be born !")
Horace (T. Horatius Flaccus), Ars Poetica, line 139
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SOME UPCOMING EVENTS
New York Section Schedule
SAVE THE DATE
Saturday, November 15, 2008
29th Annual Black Tie Dinner
Union Club
New York Section American Alpine Club
101 East 69th StreetSpecial Guests:
Conrad Anker & Jenni Lowe-AnkerInvitations Will Be Mailed in Early October
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Index (Click on a topic)
In Memoriam
"On peut vivre un peu dans le présent,
beaucoup dans l'avenir,
mais jamais dans le passé."
BLEACHERS:For the most part, this is the cheering section, where achievement and effort, either substantial or whimsical, are noted, and suitable kudos is disbursed. Here also Section members with a major (or minor) mountaineering project underway can plead for moral support, free advice, or just plain good luck. Or their friends can implore on their behalf. At certain times it is also a kind of prie-dieu or chapel, where serious matters are noted.
Camp 1 at the highest point reached by
Mark Richey's team on the North Ridge of Latok
Gracie & Susan
Gracie's First Multi-pitch
by Susan E.B. Schwartz
My husband and I met rock climbing in the Shawangunks and married nine months later on the side of a mountain in Colorado. So it was a given that mountains would figure prominently in our family life.
Fast forward to Columbus Day last year: It's a glorious Northeast autumn morning as I pile into the station wagon with John and our seven year old daughter, Gracie. We're off on our family version of the all-American outing: Is it to the mall? Grandma? Home Depot? No, the Gunks for Gracie's first multi-pitch rock climb.
For the occasion, we pick an old beginner's classic, Belly Roll 5.4. Our plan is that Mom will lead, Dad will tie in several feet below Gracie, for support and safety. Now, as Mom gears up at the base, she feels the pressure.My last time on this climb was fifteen years - a fledgling leader, I threw myself into the wide "Belly Roll" crack, got stuck by cams clipped on my harness gear loops, and thrashed my way up it in a most undignified position.
As I peer into the "Belly Roll" crack looking for pro, I call down to John, "Hey, hon, whose bright idea was it to pick this route?"
He grins. "Zeke!"
In case you wondered, Zeke is our dog. Gracie and I laugh together, as I turn back to the rock and stare again into the Belly Roll.
A strange phenomenon takes place.For the past seven years, I've barely climbed. That's a long time -- a Biblical passage (seven years of feast, seven years of famine) or an American legalism (a missing person is legally dead after seven years).
It wasn't that I fell out of love with climbing, but that scarce free time went into starting a family -- in addition to Gracie, there is four year old, Matt -- and writing the Hans Kraus biography, Into the Unknown. When I returned to climbing this spring, it was with fresh perspective: Every day at the cliffs is squeezed into a schedule of childcare, aging relatives, homework, housework, soccer drop offs, playdate pick-ups, birthday parties, sometimes even a little writing. Climbing is no longer something I take for granted, but a gift.
Turns out that the long layoff has enabled me to shake some bad, ingrained habits. In my memory, the Belly Roll crack loomed terrifyingly sheer -- despite its 5.4 grade -- but now I notice all sorts of handholds and stances. Muttering "Zeke's choice, humph!," I concede that canine's judgment wasn't half bad. Quickly, I find myself up the crux and out the crack.When I reach the tree belay before the second pitch, I look out over the Ulster County countryside several hundred feet below. And recall that one of the reasons I climb is for the belays.
It is up here, far away from the everyday, nanosecond, 24/7, urbanized, connected, over-connected, frantic world, that I find a rare and hard earned serenity. On a comfortable and roomy Gunks belay ledge, life seems so clear, rational, optimistic, timeless.
I watch turkey vultures swooping below, farms and woodlands that from here look much like they did half a century ago. I look at the tree next to me -the same, I have no doubt, that Gunks climbing pioneers, like Hans Kraus, over sixty years ago wrapped hemp ropes around for their hip belays.After quadruple checking my anchors and belay, I call out to John that he and Gracie are on belay, ready to climb. And I happily prepare myself for a long stay on the belay ledge.
I'm mistaken.
Gracie flies up the Belly Roll - at fifty pounds, she jumps inside with plenty of room to twist and turn. A particularly reachy and pumpy corner is difficult and scary for her - the guidebook calls it a second crux. But she manages with aplomb.
When and John shortly reach the belay, she is poised and smiling. John ties her in, and she settles in happily on the wide, comfy ledge.The last pitch offers a series of exposed corners. At the top, I set the belay so I can hear and see John and Gracie as they climb up. Again, it doesn't take long.
I hear Gracie's voice - calm, assured, in her dulcet, seven year old tones. Now I can make out John pointing to birds and farms below. I can see Gracie inclining her head as she chimes backs to her father, with a smile so sweet and pure, it breaks my heart.
Watching John and Gracie together on the rock, climbing also takes on a new dimension for me. It's not just the Belly Roll crack I see with fresh eyes -- it's my daughter as well.I love Gracie's joy and innocence -- how she skips down a block instead of walking, runs with her arms cartwheeling in glee, careens down the playground slide laughing with her mouth open. Yet she is tough and uncomplaining on icy, bitterly cold ski slopes. Or like today - I've seen beginning adults terrified on this climb, and here Gracie is so composed.
"You're awesome, Gracie! I'm so proud of you." I call out to her.
Sitting on the belay, it occurs to me: Do I say these things enough to her, not just today, but off the cliffs as well? Do I tell her enough how thrilled I am that she is such a happy child? That I am amazed and grateful that she is my daughter?
Before I became a mother, I had no idea of any of this. As I look out at the exposed stances on the cliffs, it occurs to me: Being a parent is like climbing an exposed route. All the explanations in the world from other people don't matter, all the descriptions you read in books can't do it justice.
Until you're there yourself, perched precariously, staring out at air all around, you have absolutely idea what it's like.When John and Gracie join me at the top, we savor the view before hiking down and ending the day on a high note by celebrating in town with ice cream.
Later that night, Gracie and I talk before I tuck her in. I am so excited for her -her first multi-pitch climb after all!
"I'm not going to tell people at school about climbing today," she tells me, as I stroke her forehead.
"Why not honey?" I ask. "You have such nice friends. And I bet your teacher would love to hear about it too."
"Because they won't understand," Gracie replies. "They won't think it's a big deal or anything that special."
I smile at Gracie, pull up the blanket, and kiss her good night. Already, Gracie, at seven, understands so much.
Submitted by Susan E.B. Schwartz
Contact info: Tel 203-665-6411 Cell 203-257-4103
email: susan@susanebschwartz.com author website www.susanebschwartz.com
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SILVERSTEIN CARRYING NY SECTION FLAG #1 TO ANTARCTICA
Dr. Sam Silverstein, a long time AAC member, will be carrying the NY Section Flag, pictured on the first page of the NY Section website, to Antarctica this December for the 40th Anniversary of the American Antarctic Mountaineering Expedition of 1966 to Mt. Vinson. Flag Number One was presented to Sam at the 27th Annual Dinner in November. Sam, who is a professor at Columbia University, was a member and organizer of the AAC-National Geographic sponsored expedition that did most of the first ascents in the Ellsworth Range including Vinson and Tyree. Accompanying him on this trip will be former teammates John Evans, Eichi Fukushima and Brian Marts. Among the missing will be deceased teammates Barry Corbet, Charley Hollister, Dick Wahlstrom and Pete Schoening, whose miraculous ice axe belay on K-2 in 1953 saved five lives. Nick Clinch, former AAC President, and Bill Long will be among the other old teammates who will not be accompanying Sam.
Sam is bringing, in addition to the NY Section Flag, an engraved steel plaque for Vinson’s summit, in memory of the deceased members of that team.
Sam’s Holiday card had a very eloquent explanation of why, in his advanced years, he is undertaking such a long and arduous trip:
"The four of us are returning to Antarctica for the same reason that one goes to college reunions, or drives a few hundred miles out of the way to visit an old friend. We do it because it’s fun to return to places to reconnect with people with whom we shared happy times. Admittedly, there is a quantitative, if not qualitative difference between driving a few hundred miles out of the way to see an old friend and traveling with friends nearly 10,000 miles to climb a 16,000 ft. peak in the center of Antarctica. But hey, who’s to say that one is more rational than the other? We don’t do these things because they make sense. We do them because they’re fun!"
"Rudyard Kipling captured the essence of it all when he wrote: ‘Something hidden, Go and find it. Go and look behind the ranges. Something lost behind the ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go.’ As Kipling wrote these words much of the globe was still unexplored and unmapped, and none of the 8.000 meter peaks had been climbed. The situation is very different today. So today, even more than in Mallory’s time, mountaineering is a voyage of personal discovery."
"Mountains and mountaineering have contributed richly to the fabric of my life. They have led me to undertake memorable adventures, introduced me to wonderful people, acquainted me with the literature of exploration, and stimulated my interest in science, medicine and education."
"There are many similarities between science and mountaineering. Both provide outlets for creative energies. Both involve technical competence, teamwork, trust perseverance and very hard work. At very critical moments, both require total commitment and willingness to take personal risks. And both offer lasting satisfactions. The biggest difference between them is their summits. In science, even the most elegant high points are just points of departure for even higher peaks. In contrast, each mountain has but one true summit, and there is no next step once you’ve reached it. Few things in life are so finite."
"So….is this a last hurrah? I do not know, but I hope not. There are many more passes to cross and ranges to see. Shaw admonished. "Life is to live, use it up.’ My response, I’m trying."
"Best wishes for the holidays and New Year."
Sam Silverstein
Here's something to support:
No success without ACCESS
Clearly, the New York Section is still right up there !
Here is kudos for blazing achievement !
CONGRATULATIONS !
TO BRITTON KEESHAN ON HIS COMPLETION And, in older news, CONGRATULATIONS AGAIN !
OF THE SEVEN SUMMITS !
Britton Keeshan crosses a crevasse
on the way to his 7th summit
Look familiar ? Could this be the ....
Photo by Britton Keeshan
The Man in the Plastic Mask;
unknown climber at summit of Everest; photo (by, of ?) from Britton Keeshan
Climbers on South Ridge of Everest; photo from Britton Keeshan
TO SHERMAN AND BRAD BULL ON THEIR
SUCCESSFUL CLIMB OF MT. EVEREST !
Sherman and Brad Bull at the summit of Mt. Everest.
Which one is which ?
Exhortation on a Scarpa boot box:
"Non cogliete fiori
Non lasciate segni del vostro passaggio"
[ Do someone a favor; submit an item ]
Pique of the Weak !
September 30, '06, Dan Hughes, Mark & Linda Fedow, on the summit of
Ampersand, High Peaks Area, Adirondacks,
as snapped by a cooperative Quebecois
November 9,'06, Bill Eldridge approaches summit on Skylight,
High Peaks Area, Adirondacks
November 9,'04, Bill Eldridge & Ron Forrest descend Skylight,
High Peaks Area, Adirondacks
January 24,'04, The Fabulous Five in happy hour mode, Winter Outing, Adirondacks
L to R, Anne Hancock, Chris Galligan, Bob Hall, Kathleen Whitby, Tony Stouffer
June 14, '03, Sandy & Phil on Bushwack direttissimo, Breakneck, NY
The smile was coached by the photographer
February 6, 2003: Ian Osteyee leads the top pitch of rhIANon, 4, Chapel Pond, NY
Conan Doyle's "Case of the Bleeding Belayer",
Winter Outing, 2002: Chris Galligan belaying after encountering falling ice.
Three good ol' boys caught at a NY Section's Annual Black Tie Dinner: L to R, Dick Bass, Chairman Phil Erard, and guest speaker Jim Wickwire
February 12, 2004: Vic Benes fumbling with the pro on the top pitch of The Last Gentleman, 5, Lake Willoughby, VT
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The top of Popocatepetl, seen from the Refugio Lopez Mateos, located at about 15,000 feet on Ixtaccihuatl, Mexico. Photo is from 1978; Popo doesn't look this way these days. The high-altitude local stray dog followed the team from about 12,000 feet.
Lenticular cloud on Aconcagua, shot by Walter Keller in February, 2000, from an elevation of about 12,500 feet, on the trek into the Plaza de Argentina
The Polish Glacier route on Aconcagua, seen from the peak Ameghino across the valley.
The Polish Glacier on Aconcagua, shot by Walter Keller in February, 2000, from a camp at about 19,500 feet. Keller says they met a many time summiter, who cited this intimidating view of the glacier as "making 95% of the people who come to climb the Polish decide the route is out of condition."
Walter Keller on a ridge near the top of the Polish Glacier route, Aconcagua.
Vic Benes' personal ice wall; location in NY area is top secret
Peak of the Week offers original photographic contributions from the New York Section. Members are invited to submit photos for this feature to Chairman Phil Erard. The idea is to change to a new picture about once a week. That way everyone can have a chance to put a picture on this Website. Needless to say, only superb, startling, spectacular shots of professional quality and unalloyed mountaineering relevance can be accepted. (Sic) Photos can also be submitted in .jpg or .gif format by e-mail to Pickwick. Please do not send images larger than 100 Kb, nor more than 3 images per e-mail. Also, be sure to identify the photo with a heading, and to credit the photographer, using an e-mail note if necessary.
Attenzione a la testa !
Caduto di sassi
Non c'e' problema, ho la testa dura !
Ritorna vincitor !
November 9,'04, Bill Eldridge approaches summit on Skylight,
High Peaks Area, Adirondacks
Our man in Nepal
This trip report was submitted by NYSection member Guido Freddi:
IS NEPAL SAFE?
Maoist uprising and authoritarian reaction in Nepal.
Nepal is the Shangri La of almost anyone who loves mountain. Unfortunately in the last years this extremely poor country has been plagued by two events that are heavily affecting not only the life of its people, but also the mind of foreigner travelers: a growing violence in the clashes between the Maoist revolutionary army and the Nepali Army on one side, and a ever more authoritative turn in the way king Gyanendra is handling his absolute power after the massacre of king Birendra and his family in 1996.
I have been in Nepal from Oct 18th to Nov 30th 2004. I’ve spent the first and the last week in Kathmandu and its valley, while trekking and climbing in the Helambu and the Langtang regions for the rest of the time. I never had any "Maoist problem" during this time, but I had a lot of inputs on how the situation has generally deteriorated in the last few years.
Before to decide to do this trip I did a long research (mostly on the internet) about the level of risk of trekking in Nepal. One of the most useful website I’ve found is the Thorn Tree forum in the Lonely Planet website. Most of the posts on this thread (title: "Is Nepal Safe?" section: "Indian Subcontinent") are written by people (mostly westerners) living or traveling in Nepal. As far as Nov 2004 the vast majority of the posts were saying that Nepal is safer than many other countries, that trekkers enjoyed their trip and that the worst thing it could happen is a 15USD fee politely demanded by a Maoist officer. Since during my trekking I didn’t even met any Maoist, my personal experience seems to confirm this view. Still, my feeling is that things in Nepal may not go the right way without some help.
First of all, while crossing the Maoist controlled High-Helambu, I’ve seen twice Royal Army barracks destroyed and abandoned, I’ve heard once a burst of automatic gun, I’ve read twice Maoist slogan against the American backed regime paint on village walls.
Second, I’ve met westerners who were halted by Maoists: usually they weren’t scared at all and they weren’t complaining about the 15USD fee, but I’ve met two Italian trekkers who were trekking to the Kanchejunga BC: they were asked 5000 Rupees (70USD) per person. They didn’t have that money and they were advised (see: forced) to go back. So they did, they said they’ll never go back to Nepal again.
Third, Nepali people in the countryside is really friendly and the easiness their smile appears with a "Namasteeee" makes you feel safe, but I remarked that some discontent exist: In the houses and lodges you never see the picture of the actual king Gyanendra but is always kept a picture of the murdered royal family of Birendra near the small altars of the living room. People don’t trust the actual King. People don’t trust Maoists either: the Maoists expropriate people money, food and cattle and (especially in the west) they abduct kids from school to indoctrinate them.
Fourth, I’ve spent four days in the village of Tarkegyang in the Helambu to participate to a Puja for an old man who died. More than the half of the families left the village in the last couple of years. Only the last day of the Puja some families came back from the Kathmandu valley to participate to the final rites. Everywhere in the countryside, the "wealthy" and the young people are leaving their century old activities to move to the Kathmandu Valley afraid of the Maoist and of the lack of Trekking related business. The crowded valley is becoming more and more an unhealthy and extremely poor suburb of the once glorious Durbar Squares, a breeding ground for frustration and all that descend from it.
Fifth, very large areas of Nepal have never been under real military control by the 70,000 men of the Royal Army and Police. It is easy for the 7,000 Maoists to claim control over these areas. The truth is that in these areas poverty is increasing very fast and there are many chances that bandits will actually control them. Bandits are far more dangerous. All the trekker’s killings in the last 30 years are to blame to them.
Sixth, the rhetoric of the Nepali Maoist-Leninist website is closer to the infamous Italian terrorist organization "Brigate Rosse" than to the old and quiet (and nowadays Democratic) "Partito Comunista Italiano".
This said, I still think Nepal is one of the most pleasant and safest areas of the Asian big mountain ranges, especially for USA citizens. Central Asia republics and Pakistan are under the pressure of Islam extremists, traveling through Tibet still means to stick to the liaison officer tantrums; Bhutan is unaffordable and very strict about your freedom of picking the route. We still have the whole of Indian Himalaya, don’t we?
Well, Assam, China border regions, Pakistan border regions, East Kumaon are all restricted (In fact, the Nepali Maoists are backed by the better organized and more dangerous Indian Maoists).
Until today no westerner has been hurt in any way by the Maoist (or by the Royal Army and Police). Nepali people needs us more than ever, for economic reasons but also because, willing or not, we are an external eye over a country at the same time is so close and so far from democracy and civil rights. The vast majority of the Nepali people are peaceful. For centuries every Nepali was able to live side by side with many neighbors of different language, religion, culture, caste. While trekking I’ve forced myself to learn some Nepali, only to find out that I had to learn some Tamang, some Sherpani, some Newari, some Yolmu-wa, some Tibetan. I’ve never seen any tension between these interweaved groups. I saw Chhetris working for Yolmus and vice-versa. Always, the first expression of a person toward another person is a smile. This is not just for tourist. Aggressiveness, competition, egocentrism are considered extremely rude.
I’m planning to go back to Nepal next spring. I would like to encourage every mountaineer and mountain lover to go to Nepal. I’m convinced that a mountaineer can use with the Maoists the same wisdom he uses with the mountains. I’m convinced that our simple presence in a small village, our peaceful enjoyment of the Himalaya beauty, our basic little sharing of the daily trekking life with a porter, our shared excitement to succeed on a summit, have a huge impact on Nepalis hope that their country destiny is on this planet and not on one of those inhuman satellites like Kosovo, Afghanistan, Iraq, Somalia…
Our men in Baxter
This trip report was submitted by Todd Fairbairn:
So, the Katahdin trip was a success. If there was any doubt where the toughest mountain in the East is- that argument was put to bed 3 weeks ago on our 17.3 mile ski (pulling our 70 pound sled) out of the place. If I had to sum it up in a few words- butt kicking, brutal weather and absolutely gorgeous! The week before leaving, four of the committed folk on the trip fell by the wayside for work and personal reasons. Howard and I had to figure out another way to get the trip going. We hooked up with a ski touring group of 10 heading in the same day as us and were able to get our names on their permit!!! Lucky for me the woman at the Baxter State park gave me the info of the other group- it went against her best judgment to give me the names and numbers of the other group but the director of the Park happened to be in the office and overheard our conversation and told her to do it! Thus saving months of preparation and our trip into the park. Timing is everything. The drive up was uneventful, besides driving 70+ mph in Howard's Subaru and scaring the bejesus out of him it was an easy 8.5 hours up there. You could cut it to 8 if you took all the shortcuts and missed rush hour traffic. We checked into the Katahdin Inn, one of these hotels built in the 1970's, gray, dark and depressing. The building is built around an indoor swimming pool and the smell of chlorine was inescapable. The receptionist gave us an interior room facing the pool on the second floor, how nice of her, now we can hear all the screaming kids doing cannon balls into the grimy water, as we sweat in our stuffy overpriced room. We quickly switched to an external facing room with a window so we could get fresh air. The first day was warm, about 34 degrees and overcast. The snow was soft and heavy. We excitedly skied the 14 miles into Roaring Brook Campground catching bits of sun and glimpses of the sides of Big K. The party we were with was made up of engineers, physicists, and chemists, 8 men and 2 women. Some pulled homemade sleds, some wore packs and others inflated their Thermarest sleeping pads and put their packs on them and pulled them as sleds. Very clever, I guess those math and science folk are always thinking out of the box. We were invited into the warm hut to cook and hang out. We watched as they killed time by reengineering old wax into candles and tweaking other gear that was not up to snuff on the ski in. We slept outside in a lean too, way more fun than the stuffy noisy hut- even as the mercury plunged to 5 degrees. We were hoping that the high pressure and cold temps would mean clear skies. The next day we dropped the skis for snowshoes and pulled the 80 lbs sleds the rest of the way (3.3 miles) to Chimney Pond. We had heard the trail was narrow and steep so snowshoes were a better choice for travel. In hindsight I wish I had them for the ski out. The day started out sunny but within an hour it got dark and stormy. The wind was whipping and visibility dropped- again no views of the mountain to be had. We got to the hut at Chimney Pond and we got a quick peek at parts of the mountain. We could see Pamola Cliffs and some of the small gullies next to them. Very impressive- thick blue ice 200-300 feet high and steep. The live-in ranger showed Howard and me the lean-tos we could choose from- all buried in snow and a few with snow walls built around them- they were dark and cave like. Then he told us of the experimental yurt they had built for the winter. A Yurt is a small Mongolian cloth shelter with light insulation; it is circular with a 15-foot diameter and a raised cone shaped roof with a sky light and two windows. Best part, it had a wood burning stove!!! We were not to sleep out in the cold at all. That lifted our morale through the roof. The idea of sleeping and hanging out in the cold for 5 days was not a high point I looked forward to. We did have to share the yurt with a couple from the ski touring party- I am sure they were psyched to be sharing the small shelter with two stinky climbers. So much for their little love nest... We played with our avalanche beacons and did a bit of exploring around the frozen pond but the weather was nasty and we chose to lie low. The Cilley Barber route had high avalanche danger on it after all the snow. It was not until the next day when the sky cleared that we were able to see what the ranger was talking about. All the routes around the South Basin had avalanched- the huge 2000 foot wall of rock, snow, and ice was impressive and we were staying right there at the mouth of the basin. Day two was not much better weather wise. While the skies were clear it was cold about -5 and the wind was blowing up to 40 mph down at the pond, twice that on the summit. Huge streams of snow and cloud were being blown off the summit and ridges. It was beautiful but no place to play on. We took a little snowshoe jaunt to Blueberry Knoll at the mouth of the Great Basin a few miles from camp; the wind had its way with us- pushing us, manhandling us. I had to put on my goggles and facemask just to stand there in the freezing wind and soak up the sights. That afternoon it eased up a bit and Howard and I took a run up a gully called Pinnacle. An easy two pitch Water Ice 3. The ice was boilerplate, thick and blue. The kind of ice that shatters and you end up having to hit it 3 times before you get a good placement. The kind of ice that won't let go of tools. On more than a few occasions I could not get my tools out. Howard shivered at the belay as I smacked the tools around. My nose running like a faucet- constant drip from the cold- my eyes not much better tearing up from the cold and wind. The next day was cloudy again, no visibility at all. The temp was up to maybe 15-20 degrees and we chose to lie low again and bag a nearby 4000 foot peak. That afternoon we took a look deep into the South Basin, home to many of the great technical Katahdin climbs. It was amazing to see it that close. Huge ice floes and massive snowfields, steep rock. It was impressive. At the base of all the classic climbs there were huge avalanche fans. Climbing in this place was just asking for trouble. I felt better about not climbing these routes after seeing them up close. The avalanche danger was just too great and the mountain was not going anywhere, we agreed to come back when conditions were more favorable. The day we had planned to ski out the weather was perfect. Not a cloud in the sky and no wind at all. The temperature was -5 to 0. Howard and I decided to climb another gully and ski out the next day- we could not pass up the opportunity climb on such a perfect day. We choose a climb called Pamola Fury Left (Grade 3 NEI 3) an 1800-foot gully to the right of the Pamola ice cliffs topping out on Pamola Peak at 4900 feet. The climb had already avalanched and we judged it safe enough to climb. The first 500 feet were on the avalanche or next to it, steep consolidated snow. There were two pitches of vertical or near vertical ice. This was no regular ice--- blue, boiler plate, the kind that had not seen the sun for 6 months, the kind that ate screws and picks for snacks. It was work, hard work. The next 4 pitches were up the steep snow gully, narrowing as we got closer to the top. Not getting a good feeling about the snow in the gully at the top, we unroped and scrambled up the rocks for the final 300 feet. The rib of rock we scrambled up was bordered by a 300’ cliff and the Fury gully- the exposure was amazing. We topped out 8 hours after we started; it was a slow slog on the perfect winter day. We could see for miles on top, the patchwork of lakes and timber farms as far as the eye could see. That night we feasted on all our left-over food and passed out early in our toasty yurt- now abandoned by the lovebirds. The sled out was a long slog. I know better next time to pay some locals to snowmobile me to the park entrance and cut the journey in half. Howard and I flew back to NYC- smooth sailing back to NYC at 2AM. We feasted on greasy fried food and a cold soda to boost morale. A fine Alpine Club adventure under our belt. For those looking for an Alaskan adventure, save yourself the plane ticket and drive up to Maine, you will get all the rock, snow and ice you could ever want without changing time zones.
ICE CONDITIONS: Thanks to the internet, it is now possible to get almost daily reports and photos of the main areas and routes. Check out these links for updated conditions in the North-East:
rockandriver.com
NEice.com
LINKS TO OTHER SITES: In no particular order, we list here other websites which members of the New York Section may find useful, entertaining, or just otiose. For the time being we let the addresses speak for themselves; later we may append brief descriptions.
Mohonk Preserve, Inc.
The Mountain Institute
The Explorers Club
Gunks Climbers' Coalition
Climbing in New Jersey
The Mountaineer, Keene Valley, NY
Ian Osteyee Guide Service
Ed Palen Guide Service
R.L. & Karen Stolz Guide Service
INTRO : Founded in 1974, the New York Section is one of the oldest and largest of the of the American Alpine Club's regional sections. The New York Section encompasses the States of New York, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey, as well as Fairfield County, Connecticut. If you are an AAC member and reside in any of the above areas, you are automatically a member of the New York Section. No special dues or assessments are involved. Throughout the year the Section hosts and organizes a number of events designed to foster camaraderie among members, and to provide opportunities for improving climbing skills and taking part in domestic and foreign climbing trips. Because of the large distances between New York City and the outlying areas currently included, sections in Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, and Buffalo/ Rochester are under active consideration. If you are from these areas and would like to assist in organizing such a section, please contact us for details.
BULLETINS !
Let's try that again.
SPECIAL BULLETINS !
CALENDAR & BULLETINS !
New ice tools ?
Natalia Richey on City Lights 5.7
CLIFF MALONEY, BOB STREET, & MARTY SCHMIDT CLIMB MT. VINSON IN ANTARCTICA
Mini-epic @ the Gunks Here is an item which is just the sort of on-the-spot report that we almost never get. So we post it here with the permission of the participants, and with no editing.
JC and I climbed in the Gunks Friday and "did" Jim's Gem, a supposedly 5.8 route. The top pitch involves a ceiling that you must pull. There were two old pitons about 10 feet apart under the roof with no possibilities for further gear. JC led this pitch on two ropes and hooked a quick draw to each piton with one rope to each quick draw. I have been climbing outside with JC for 7 years and never saw him take a lead fall. Well, he fell pulling the roof and dropped about 15 feet. I was belaying from a ledge about 40 feet below and caught the fall. JC went back up and after a few minutes of study, pulled the roof, and finished the route. Now it's my turn. Remember JC leads 10s and I can certainly climb to about 10A. I get to the same spot try to find holds and can't find decent feet or hands. I shout up to JC to hold me and I'll study the route. Except that when I let go I swing out about 10 feet to the right, because my belay is from the top right of the ceiling. About this time, I look at this old, manky, piton on the right and realize that it "tore" when JC fell. Because of my swing, I am putting lateral pressure on the piton and it rips in half, sling shotting into my face. Fortunately, it hit my lips - not my eye or square in the teeth. We are talking about several ounces of iron. After a few minutes of spitting blood, I tried the ceiling again, but couldn't do the move. JC lowered me to the GT ledge. He then set an anchor at the top and I belayed him down and belayed him back up to get the remaining gear above the roof. He then rappelled to the GT ledge and then we both rappelled 150 feet to the bottom of the cliff. Attached are two pictures of the broken piton. Climbing is dangerous boys and girls. We hope to get back out next week.
bob g
Our correspondent bob g supplied two views of the broken piton, reproduced below with a carabiner for scale.
HOUSTON TO SPEAK AT NEW YORK ANNUAL DINNER
The 27th Annual New York Section Black Tie Dinner will be held on Saturday November 11th at the Union Club in Manhattan. The Special Guest Speaker will be Charles S. Houston, MD., best known as the leader of the 1938 and 1953 American Expeditions to K-2 as well as for his expertise in high altitude medicine and physiology. The subject of his presentation and film will be "The Brotherhood of the Rope", an expression first coined by Gaston Rebuffat but perhaps best exemplified by the extraordinary life-long bond between the members of the 1953 American Expedition to K-2. In a raging storm, high up on the mountain, the climbers attempted an almost impossible rescue of Art Gilkey at great risk to themselves. In the process six team members, including Houston, were pulled from their stances and faced an almost certain death, only to be saved by the improbable ice axe belay of Pete Schoening.
One can only contrast this team ethic with that of certain climbers today, who, so preoccupied with making the summit of Everest, reportedly by passed a dying climber without offering assistance because it would have impeded their summit attempt.
Houston, at age 93, is a living treasure of Alpinism. His expedition roots go back to the 1936 Nanda Devi Expedition with Bill Tilman, then the highest to have been climbed. He led the first American Expedition to K-2 in 1938 and also led the 1953 Expedition. He is well known also for his pioneering work on the effects of high altitude on human physiology, co-authoring the classic " Going Higher-Oxygen, Man and Mountains." He also co-authored with Bob Bates " K-2 the Savage Mountain" the story of the 1953 Expedition.
As in the past, the Dinner will be run as a benefit for the Library and Journal. We will also honor our senior members reaching important membership milestones, accompanied, as usual by an introduction (some say "roast") of our rookie members. Over the years this event has raised more than six figures for Club causes. There will also be a photographic exhibit on the Adirondack Wilderness by the acclaimed photographer Olaf Soot as well as a short multimedia presentation of the recent "Everest Sleepover" at the Rubin Museum. This is reported on in the next article below.
Invitations will be sent in September to all New York Section members as well to subscribers to last year’s event. Every year many out-of-town members like to combine the Dinner with a weekend in Manhattan. If you live outside the Section and are interested in joining us, please email your request for an invitation to philiperard@nysalpineclub.org. or call 212-763-0379 and leave a message
Phil Erard
EXPEDITION RMA: A PEAK EXPERIENCE
The Ultimate Sleepover
On the evening of June 10, 2006, all six floors of the Rubin Museum of Art (RMA) will be transformed into Mt. Everest, as forty kids, aged 11-14, participate in an extraordinary cultural adventure: an overnight, fully-simulated climb up the highest mountain on earth. Luis Benitez, a world-renowned high altitude mountaineer and four-time Everest summiteer, who is currently leading his sixth Everest expedition, will be their guide. He will lead the acclimatization trek through the Himalayas to Base Camp, the treacherous ascent through the Khumbu Icefall and to each of the four high camps, through the "death zone," and, finally, to the summit early Sunday morning. Throughout the night, these forty young adventurers will work together to confront the physical challenges, discover the beauty, consider the perils, experience the culture, and practice the team dynamics of climbing Mt. Everest. Like those who have challenged the real mountain before (10,000 have tried, fewer than 1,500 have reached the summit) their goal is to reach the summit and return unharmed.
The journey begins at 7:30 p.m. in the village of Lukla - otherwise known as RMA's Theater - where Luis Benitez will present an overview of climbing Mt. Everest. Through the activities led by wilderness instructors, Sherpas, and RMA Guides, over the course of the evening the kids will learn basic high altitude climbing, camping, safety, and leadership skills. They will explore Himalayan art, Sherpa culture, and mountaineering food and etiquette. Each camp contains a challenge the climbers must surmount - tying knots with mittens on, using supplementary oxygen, and operating two-way radios - before qualifying to climb to the next level. And as rappelling is a part of mountaineering, Luis Benitez will demonstrate, hooked into a rope suspended from the Museum's 90-foot high atrium, straight down the center of the spiral staircase. At nightfall, the climbers descend to base camp to sleep. After a hearty tsampa dinner, stories of the mysterious yeti, who roam the slopes of Everest, are exchanged in the tents. At dawn, the young mountaineers are awakened for the final push to the summit. At the end of the adventure, everyone returns to Lukla for breakfast where the expedition is discussed and Luis Benitez conducts a wrap-up presentation. At 8:00 a.m., Sunday, June 11, the young mountaineers return home to the foothills of Chelsea. Expedition RMA: A Peak Experience Start: Saturday, June 10, 7:30 p.m. Finish: Sunday, June 11, 8:00 a.m. Admission (advance only): $108, includes dinner, snacks, and full breakfast Children must be between the ages of 11 - 14 and should bring a sleeping bag and a change of clothes
About Luis Benitez
Luis Benitez is leading his sixth Everest expedition, and is currently available for interviews via e-mail or satellite phone. He is reporting over streaming video for ABC Television, National Geographic, and ExplorersWeb. Video and still images of his expedition are available. Luis Benitez Khumbu Icefall, Mt. Everest The Ascent Spiral Staircase, RMA Luis Benitez is among an emerging, elite generation of high altitude mountaineering professionals. At only 33, his list of accomplishments is comparable to professionals ten or more years his senior. As a high altitude guide, Luis Benitez is in great demand year round, with past clients including blind athlete, Erik Weihenmeyer, to seven-summiteer, Annabelle Bond, whom Luis guided up Russia's Mt. Elbrus and through a harrowing Mt.Vinson expedition in Antarctica.
Luis Benitez's story is one of remarkable optimism, determination, passion, and discipline. He went from being an asthmatic, housebound kid, growing up in a Latino-American family in St. Louis, Missouri, to becoming a global leader in an exciting and demanding profession that requires enormous respiratory strength and endurance. Because of his own experience in overcoming enormous obstacles to fulfill his dream, one of Luis Benitez's goals is to mentor children who harbor similarly impossible-seeming dreams.
About RMA
The Rubin Museum of Art houses an esteemed collection of Himalayan art. The paintings, pictorial textiles, and sculpture are drawn from cultures that touch upon the 1,800 mile arc of mountains that extends from Afghanistan in the northwest to Myanmar (Burma) in the southeast. The larger Himalayan cultural sphere, determined by significant cultural exchange over millennia, includes Iran, India, China, Central Asia, and southeast Asia. The rich cultural legacy of this region, largely unfamiliar to western viewers, offers an uncommon opportunity for visual adventure and aesthetic discovery. For young and old alike it is an environment in which to encounter the unknown and find meaningful dialogue. It requires actively bringing to bear one's previous experience, looking closely at the material at hand, discriminating carefully, and shaping the imagination. The fundamental aim of the Museum is to provide this adventure in learning through art. Visitors will acquire specific knowledge of Himalayan cultures to the extent of their curiosity and ability, but it is hoped that every visitor will experience the joy of discovering meaning through looking, thinking, and feeling, and strengthen an attitude of open inquiry into the world of everyday.
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"A l'amara novella
Rassembra l'infelice un muto sasso
Che per troppo dolor non può dolersi.""At these bitter tidings
The unhappy one is like a dumb rock, who
For too much pain himself cannot grieve."Alessandro Striggio, Libretto for Claudio Monteverdi's L'Orfeo, 1607.
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Overheard on El Cap:
"REVOCATE ANIMOS MAESTUMQUE TIMOREM MITTITE
FORSAN ET HAEC OLIM MEMINISSE IUVABIT"
("Recall your spirits, banish fear and dread
Perhaps even this shall be pleasant to remember.")
Vergil (Publius Vergilius Maro), Aeneidos
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EVENTS : The Section hosts two kinds of events: private, i.e. open only to members by invitation, and public, open to both members and the general public. In general, our climbing outings and trips are reserved for members and their guests, as is our Annual Dinner. Events open to the general public include periodic slide shows in Manhattan and ALPINFILM, the New York International Mountain Film Festival, now in its 10th year. Details of the above events can be found elsewhere on this website. Most invitation-only events require advance reservations and full payment upfront.
The Section holds slide shows in Manhattan from time to time, either at the Explorers Club on East 70th Street, or downtown at a retail store location. Detailed announcements are mailed out to the membership about 3 weeks in advance, and/or posted on this website as soon as possible. Slide shows normally do not require advance reservations, and payment at the door is customary. Typically, slide shows are followed by a social hour. ALPINFILM tickets are available at the box office or may be purchased through Ticketmaster. Our Annual Dinner, now in its 19th year, is invariably a sell-out, as are our climbing trips and outings. ALPINFILM also attracts a full house, so an early response to these events is strongly advised.
OUTINGS : The Section organizes two outings in the Adirondacks each year, one generally at the end of January or beginning of February, and another either in June or during the autumn colors. Guide service, rock climbing or ice climbing instruction and equipment rentals are generally available for these outings by "networking" with commercial providers; they are not provided by the Section nor by the Alpine Club. Group size is typically limited to 30 members and guests. Outings can also include Saturday cocktails and dinner, and a member slide show or after-dinner talk. From time to time various members will organize conditioning hikes and mountain bike and cross-country ski trips in the New York/New Paltz area.
This spot reserved for announcements of the New England Section AAC Come in, NE Section ....
TRIPS : During the last two years, members have organized trips to various areas and have opened them up to Section members. These include domestic destinations such as Devil's Tower and Needles, and foreign ones such as New Zealand and Patagonia. Invitations to these are sent to qualified members who have participated in our climbing outings or are known to the organizer. Participants find these a welcome contrast to travelling alone or joining a "mail order" trip with strangers. CLIMBS PLANNED, CLIMBERS SOUGHT, ETC. :
Attention: AAC Members
Ever looking for a partner for a trip you're planning?
With the weather getting warmer, a number of you are planning to take advantage of the situation and organizing trips to the Gunks, Whites, Daks, as well as local hikes. Some may be going farther afield to the Rockies and elsewhere. Other trips may be just for the day or weekend or on short notice or depending on a good weather forecast. If you are looking for partners or have room for additional AAC participants, we're here to help.
If you would like to be included on such a list and/or be notified when a "partners wanted" notice is posted, please let us know by responding affirmatively by Email. Your name and Email will be posted on the Section Website (http:nysalpineclub.org)
Phil & Vic
Bill Eldridge, Ron Bixby, and Vic Benes seek a fourth climber for a June 30 - July 10, 2008, trip to the North Cascades, with Baker and Shuksan as targets. If interested, please reply to vabenes@earthlink.net or 973 467 8460 for more information and palaver.
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PATAGONIA FJORDS
EXPEDITIONINTRODUCTION
This will be an adventure through the fjords and canals of Patagonia, surrounded by true wilderness. While cruise ships visit this area, their guests can see the glaciers and mountains, but they cannot touch. Ours is an expedition where we can enjoy comfort on sailboat and experience the "pleasures" of mountaineering or exploring.
We planned this expedition for March this year. My shoulder rotator cuff surgery in the beginning of March and some other circumstances changed the plans. Now, we are actually better off, because instead of going from south to north into the wind, we will have tailwinds going south.
THE PLAN
The plan is to sail Patagonia Fjords either from Puerto Yungay or Puerto Eden to Puerto Williams, to explore the shores and glaciers along the 700-mile inland passage.
Puerto Yungay can be reached by ground transportation if this option is selected, Puerto Eden by scheduled ship. Starting from either of these ports eliminates sailing 600 miles of open ocean, thus saving time.
The plan is also flexible. We certainly want to climb a mountain along the way that may have no name, or if we cannot find a suitable one, we can attempt Mt. Darwin at the end of our sail from Bahia Pia. From there the summit is only 6 miles away, but 8,000 ft up.
In any case, we should be equipped for climbing and camping.
THE BOAT
The Ocean Tramp is a beautiful 70-ft sailboat with engine. She has a double aluminum hull and has been conditioned for stormy southern oceans. She is completely enclosed, can carry ten passengers, plus a crew of three. She is stored during southern winter in Puerto Montt and sails down to Puerto Williams for summers. Ocean Tramp belongs to Charles Porter, who is a well-known climber. He charters the boat to NOAA and to other expeditions and participates in glacier and climate research. Therefore, he has firsthand knowledge of the Chilean fjords, Tierra del Fuego and South Georgia Islands. According to Charles, going from North to South in October, we should have tailwinds and this year the El Nino/La Nina cycle should be favorable.
THE COST
The boat charters for $1,400 per day, including food. For 20 days this would be $2,800 per person if ten of us go, or $3,500 per person if we have a team of eight. Airfare from New York to Punta Arenas should be less than $1,000, depending on the season. The scheduled ship from Puerto Montt to Puerto Eden would be approximately $300-400 per person in private cabin.
THE SCHEDULE
The exact schedule will depend on Charles’ other commitments. The departure would be between the end of September and middle of October. Charles will be in New York area in June and then all the plans can be finalized.
Welcome aboard,
Olaf
Interested persons, please contact:
Olaf Sööt
9 Tomahawk Lane
Greenwich, CT 06830
203 661-4522
Two more photos of Tierra del Fuego follow
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WEBTEAM FLIER : This is a draft; comments are invited.
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BE PART OF THE SOLUTION !
JOIN AAC NEW YORK SECTION'S
WEB TEAM !
HELP DESIGN AND RUN OUR INTERNET SITE
AT
http://nys.alpineclub.org
HI-TECH, PRESTIGIOUS, PERTINENT, USER-FRIENDLY
WE NEED :
Publicists to seek out cross-links, identify new search engines, and post public events and programs on relevant "WHAT'S ON ?" pages.
Reporters to seek out climbing stories, forthcoming expeditions, interesting member profiles, political issues, e.g. anchors & access, impact on wilderness, safety, ethical issues, guiding, whatever.
Graphics Designers : Your expertise can make our site VIBRANT !
Photographers : Your shots from Machapuchare can bring the Himal to the membership ! Seriously, we need both superb pictures and help in presenting them in digital form.
Programmers can use their knowledge of HTML,JavaScript, JAVA, PERL, etc. to think up innovative features for the site.
IF YOU KNOW OF INFORMATION MEMBERS CAN USE,
HELP US PUT IT ON A PAGE AT YOUR NYS SITE :
http://nysalpineclub.org
CAVE: Please clear submissions with Section Chairman or Webmaster:
Phil Erard, Section Chairman
philiperard@nysalpineclub.org Vaclav E. (Vic) Benes, Webmaster
vabenes@nysalpineclub.org
ANNUAL DINNER : Among the Section's activities, the black tie Annual Dinner is perhaps the most talked-about event of its kind in the world of climbing. Now in its 19th year, the dinner has featured as speakers such celebrities as Chris Bonington, Joe Simpson, Peter Habeler, John Roskelley, Royal Robbins, Gaston Rebuffat, Kurt Diemberger, Brad Washburn, David Breashears, and others too numerous to mention. In addition, there is generally a short report by a Section Member on a significant climbing accomplishment, as well as an induction ceremony for the new members present. Limited to 140 members and guests, the Dinner is usually held on the last Saturday of October. Once again, this event is by invitation only, and an early response is essential. It is run as a benefit for some worthwhile climbing-related cause and attracts guests from all over America.
Click here for an account of the 1998 Annual Dinner.
ALPINFILM : In just 10 years, ALPINFILM has established itself as one of the premier mountain film festivals in North America and the world. A juried competition offering cash prizes to winning films, the event draws a capacity crowd of 400 climbers and adventure film fans along with representatives of the media and the entertainment world, filmmakers, and climbing celebrities. This year's event was held on the evening of May 19, 1999 at Florence Gould Hall in midtown Manhattan. Announcements and program details are available on this Website in due course. The Section is a prime sponsor of this event, along with Rolex Watch, USA, and others. A climbing-related cause is the beneficiary. To get a flier for the film festival, EMAIL (do not call !) your name and address to Section Chairman Phil Erard.
Your browser can't handle this DHTML page.
THIS IS IT !
ALPINFILM IS NEARLY HERE !
Welcome to THE premier
Mountain Film Festival
Brought to you by
American Alpine Club, ROLEX, & SUMMIT
ALPINFILM 2000 is on May 22, 2000 !
AAC New York Section
ROLEX
SUMMIT ![]()
present
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ALPINFILM 2000
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11th Annual New York International Mountain Film Festival
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Monday, May 22, 2000 Florence Gould Hall--55 East 59th Street (Madison & Park)
French Institute--Alliance Française
7:00 P.M. Sharp
A Juried Competition Featuring
Prize-Winning Films Celebrating
The Mountain ExperienceENTRIES INCLUDE
"I MADE IT-AGAIN!" NJ's indomitable Gerry Bloch, at age 81, breaks his own age record for a Big Wall Climb in Yosemite with an epic 11-day ascent of a very hard route.
"INTO THIN ATLAS" Lighthearted weekend escapade by a New Yorker to climb 13,700 foot Toubkal, North Africa's highest peak.
"WHEEL WOMEN" Champion female mountain bikers in action.
"BUNNY" Computer animation takes on life and mortality. Endearing
"SONS of the MOUNTAINEERS" John Harlin and Peter Hillary, both sons of famous climbers, guide a novice in the New Zealand Alps, and reflect on their family legacies.
"WILD CLIMBS" Barry Blanchard and Nancy Feagin tackle a big wall in the spectacular Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Northwest Territories.
"SHISHIPANGMA--A CELEBRATION OF LIFE" The story of last year's Himalayan ski mountaineering expedition which cost the life of Alex Lowe, one of America's most respected climbers.
"VISION MAN" An elderly Inuit hunter looks back at a traditional life style in Greenland's north that is gradually giving way to the modern world. Haunting.
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Tickets: $15, $20, $25
All seats are reserved. Tickets available in advance at Gould Hall Box Office (212/355-6160), at Paragon Sporting Goods (18th & Broadway), or charged by phone via Ticketmaster (212/307-4100). All ticket sales are final, no refunds. Full program with intermission lasts about 3 1/2 hours. Film selection not final at press time.
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DOOR PRIZES, JURY AWARDS,CELEBRITIES
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GALLERY : Feature well off the ground, but solidly anchored; just haul up your pix.
Bob Elsinger belaying Craig Wilson (awesome, out of sight !) on Mineville Pillar,
Keene, NY, during the January 2000 Adirondacks Outing
Here are two shots from the June 2003 Adirondacks Outing at the Ausable Club, by Chair P. Erard.
L to R: Ela Bialek, Mark Kassner,
Fritz Selby, John TiernanL,Spencer Newman, of Adventurous Traveler Books;
R, Fritz Selby, of course.
January 28, 2004: Vic Benes topping out on Big Brother, 5, under thin conditions, after the NYSection Winter Outing in the Adirondacks. (Chapel Pond, Keene, NY)
IN MEMORIAM :
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David Boyd Brown
Entrepreneur, Animator
1938-2003
OBITUARY
David Boyd Brown
Dave Brown, an AAC member since 1981, passed away on April 11, 2003, about a month after having been struck by a vehicle while bicycling in Westchester County. He lived in Ossining, NY.
Dave was an active member of the New York Section and frequently attended Section events in the City as well as its outings. Most recently he participted in our winter outing in the Adirondacks, as well as our Fall outing at the Ausable Club.
Dave was born in Vermont and was a graduate of Mt. Hermon School, Middlebury College and Columbia Business School. He was a software entrepreneur and a pioneer in the computer animation industry. He founded and was CEO of Blue Sky Studios in White Plains which won an Oscar in 1998 for its animated short "Bunny". Blue Sky was also responsible for "Ice Age", another animated film that has enjoyed great box office success. He sold Blue Sky to 20th Century Fox a few years ago.
Dave was involved in a number of other outdoor and environmental organizations including the Vermont Land Trust, the Wilderness Society and the Audubon Society.
He was also a trustee of the Union Church of Pocantico Hills, located, ironically enough, only a few miles from the scene of the fatal accident. He is survived by his wife Andrea Bailey, two brothers, including AAC member Fred Brown, and several nephews and nieces.
At his Memorial Service David was remembered as a visionary businessman, a great lover of the outdoors and as a person who was unfailingly kind and helpful to others.
He will be greatly missed.
Phil Erard
Addendum by John Tiernan ![]()
This is one of the few recent photos we have of our friend and recently departed member of the NY Section, Dave Brown. Shown here at the October 2002 Fall Outing to Keene Valley, the group had just completed a long day hike over Bear Den, Dial, and Nippletop in dramatic post-storm weather. From L to R, Julie Chateauvert, Mark Fedow, trip leader John Tiernan, Betsy Royal, and Dave.
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George Van Brunt Cochran
Surgeon, Mountaineer, Arctic Explorer
Jan. 30, 1932 - Jan. 6, 2003
OBITUARY
George Van Brunt Cochran
Dr. George Van Brunt Cochran was an orthopedic surgeon, mountaineer, and a former president of the Explorers Club in New York. His specialty was climbing uncharted Arctic mountains. In a world fast running out of unknown places to explore, Dr. Cochran concentrated on unmapped areas, especially the Canadian Arctic territories, where he made a total of 14 expeditions. His mountaineering exploits include 40 first ascents of peaks in Canada, the Himalayas, and the Andes.
George Cochran applied his orthopedist's knowledge of stresses and strains in bone to those in Arctic ice, designing equipment to measure the movement of glaciers and the progress of climate change.
In 1967 he organized and led the Cape Dyer Arctic-Alpine Expedition to Baffin Island, which began with a long voyage with Inuits in native whaleboats and resulted in several first ascents. From 1967 to 1990 Dr. Cochran led six expeditions to Ellesmere Island. On his 1978 trip the party used sledges and skis to travel more than a hundred miles in rough weather.
Cochran studied at Dartmouth College, and at Columbia University's medical school. In 1958-9 he was a captain and flight surgeon in the United States Air Force. In 1980 he founded and was director of the Orthopedic Engineering and Research Center at Helen Hayes Hospital in West